Guitar Fuzz Effect
Parts |
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Friday, 24 August 2012
Circuit
Wednesday, 22 August 2012
ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း
၀၀၁။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၁) (၇.၅.၂၀၁၀-ညေန)
၀၀၂။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၂) (၇.၅.၂၀၁၀-ည)
၀၀၃။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၃) (၈.၅.၂၀၁၀-နံနက္)
၀၀၄။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၄) (၈.၅.၂၀၁၀-နံနက္)
၀၀၅။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၅) (၈.၅.၂၀၁၀-ေန႕လည္)
၀၀၆။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၆) (၈.၅.၂၀၁၀-ညေန)
၀၀၇။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၇) (၈.၅.၂၀၁၀-ည)
၀၀၈။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၈) (၉.၅.၂၀၁၀-နံနက္)
၀၀၉။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၉) (၉.၅.၂၀၁၀-ေန႕)
၀၁၀။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၁၀) (၉.၅.၂၀၁၀-ညေန)
၀၁၁။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၁၁) (၉.၅.၂၀၁၀-ည)
Circuit
Classic LED Flasher Circuit
This LED flasher circuit is a classic two transistor flip flop. This flasher circuit is very popular and it’s usually the first circuit to build when starting electronic circuit building hobby. Here is the schematic diagram of the famous LED flasher circuit:
How LED Flasher Circuit Works
The circuit consist of two transistors, two capacitors, four resistors, and two LEDs. When the power supply is first connected to this LED flasher circuit, both transistor is racing to be triggered first by the base current through 100k resistor. Actually when one transistor is triggered first than the other, the first activated transistor will behave like a closed switch, so the LED will turn ON and the base of the other transistor will be grounded through the capacitor. This grounding keep the first transistor to be activated and the second one to stay off untill the capacitor is charged above the bias voltage needed to activate the second transistor. After reaching this voltage, the second transistor will be switched on and now the second transistor will turn ON the LED on its collector, turning off the first transistor by grounding its base through the second capacitor. This alternating process will be repeated forever until the power supply is turned off. The flashing rate will depend on the resistors (100k) and the capacitors values. You can change the values of the capacitors to change the flashing frequency. Use a higher capacitance value for lower flashing rate, and vice verse.
Tuesday, 21 August 2012
Circuit
12V To 24V DC-DC Converter Circuit
Parts |
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Notes |
- R6 sets the output voltage. This can be calculated by Vout = 12 x (R8/(R8+R7)) x (R6B/R6A).
- L1 is made by winding 60 turns of 0.63MM magnet wire on a toroidial core measuring 15MM (OD) by 8MM (ID) by 6MM (H).
- D2 can be any fast recovery diode rated at greater then 100V at 5A. It is very important that the diode be fast recovery and not a standard rectifier.
- Q1 will need a heatsink.
Samsung Galaxy Y GT-S5360
How to Root the Samsung Galaxy Y GT-S5360
The Galaxy Y (GT-S5360) has been around for enough time and been popular enough to catch the eyes of the developers and has hence been rooted, paving the way for custom ROMs on this affordable device. This How To will show you how to take that first step and experience at least some of what the big guns get to do.
2. Enable USB Debugging on the Galaxy Y – to do this, head to Settings -> Applications -> Development and check the box next to Enable USB Debugging.
3. Make sure that Samsung Kies or any other application that might interfere with the process are running on your Windows PC.
4. Create a backup of all your data before proceeding – this is not mandatory but it’s always good to have something to roll back to if anything goes wrong.
2. Copy the downloaded update.zip file to the top folder of the microSD card – do not extract it.
3. If plugged in, unplug the handset from the PC and turn it off.
4. Put it into recovery mode – to do this, press and hold the volume up key + home key (the middle button on the front of your device) and press the power button until it goes into recovery mode.
5. Select Apply update from SD card and locate the update.zip file you copied to the microSD card. Press the volume up or down to navigate and then the power button to select the option.
6. Let the rooting process complete. When done, select Reboot system now to restart the device.
Your Galaxy Y should now be rooted!!
I. Before You Begin
1. A full charge is recommended to prevent any mishaps due to the battery draining out during the procedure.2. Enable USB Debugging on the Galaxy Y – to do this, head to Settings -> Applications -> Development and check the box next to Enable USB Debugging.
3. Make sure that Samsung Kies or any other application that might interfere with the process are running on your Windows PC.
4. Create a backup of all your data before proceeding – this is not mandatory but it’s always good to have something to roll back to if anything goes wrong.
II. Rooting the Phone
1. Download the necessary root package here.2. Copy the downloaded update.zip file to the top folder of the microSD card – do not extract it.
3. If plugged in, unplug the handset from the PC and turn it off.
4. Put it into recovery mode – to do this, press and hold the volume up key + home key (the middle button on the front of your device) and press the power button until it goes into recovery mode.
5. Select Apply update from SD card and locate the update.zip file you copied to the microSD card. Press the volume up or down to navigate and then the power button to select the option.
6. Let the rooting process complete. When done, select Reboot system now to restart the device.
Your Galaxy Y should now be rooted!!
Monday, 20 August 2012
Galaxy Y S-5360 သမားမ်ားအတြက္ Custom Jelly Bean Rom
ဒီကာစတန္ရြန္ေလးကေတာ့ Galaxy Y S-5360 သမားေတြအတြက္ Jelly Bean Custom Rom ေလးပဲၿဖစ္ပါတယ္ ။ ကို Htet Wai Yan Tun ဖုန္းမွာ
ေအာင္ၿမင္စြာစမ္းသပ္ပီးၿဖစ္လို႕ တၿခား Galaxy Y သမားမ်ား JB နဲ႕လန္းရေအာင္ doc လုပ္ပီးတင္ေပးတင္ေပးလိုက္ပါတယ္ ။
Custom Rom သံုးမယ္ဆိုမိမိဖုန္းဟာ အၿမစ္တူးၿပီးသားၿဖစ္ဖို႕လိုအပ္ပါတယ္ ။ Root မလုပ္ရေသးတဲ့သူမ်ား ဒီလင့္မွာၾကည့္ပီး လုပ္ႏုိင္ပါတယ္ ။
ပထမဦးစြာ မိမိဖုန္းရဲ႕ အေရးၾကီးေဒတာမ်ားကို မိမိႏွစ္သက္ရာ app နဲ႕ backup လုပ္ထားေစခ်င္ပါတယ္ ။
ကဲလုပ္ငန္းးစဥ္ေလးစလိုက္ၾကရေအာင္ ။
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၁) ။ ပထမဦးစြာ Jelly Bean Custom Rom ကိုေအာက္ကလင့္ကေနတဆင့္ေဒါင္းေပးပါ ။
ဒါေလးကေတာ့ Status Bar Panel အတြက္ပါ ။
ဒါေလးကေတာ့ Boot Animation အတြက္ပါ ။
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၂) ။ ဒါင္းထားတဲ့ ဖိုင္သံုးခုကို SD card ထဲသို႕ေကာ္ပီကူး ထည့္လိုက္ပါ ။
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၃) ။ ဖုန္းကုိပါ၀ါပိတ္ shutdown လုပ္လိုက္ပါ ။
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၄) ။ ထို႕ေနာက္ Recovery mode ကိုသြားပါမယ္ ။ power button + Volume up + Home button ကိုတၿပိဳင္ထဲဖိထားေပးပါ ။
Galaxy Y လို႕စာတန္းစေပၚလာတာနဲ႕တၿပိဳင္ထဲဖိထားတာကို release လုပ္ေပးပါ ။ အဲဒီအခါ Recovery mode ထဲသို႕ေရာက္ရွိသြားပါလိမ့္မယ္ ။
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၅ )။ ထို႕ေနာက္ data နဲ႕ cache ကို wipe လုပ္ေပးပါ ။ ( မိမိေဒတာမ်ားအား ဖ်က္ပစ္မည္ၿဖစ္ေသာေၾကာင့္ အေရးၾကီး ေဒတာမ်ားအား ၾကိဳတင္ပီး ဘက္အပ္ၿပဳလုပ္ထားေစခ်င္ပါသည္ ။ )
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၆)။ ထို႕ေနာက္ install from sd card ဆိုတာကိုႏွိပ္လိုက္ပါ ။ အဲဒီေနာက္မွာ ဖုန္း sd card ထဲထည့္ ထားတဲ့ ဖိုင္ ၃ ခုအနက္က JellyBlastGenED.signed.zip ဆိုတဲ့ဖိုင္ကိုေရြးေပးလိုက္ပါ ။
ထို႕ေနာက္ Yes It will be installed ကိုႏွိပ္လိုက္ပါ ။ အဲဒီအခါမွာ လိုအပ္တဲ့ဖိုင္ေတြကို စပီး အင္စေတာၿပဳလုပ္ေနၿပီၿဖစ္ပါတယ္ ။
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၇) ။ အင္စေတာၿပဳလုပ္ပီးပါက မိမိဖုန္းအား reboot လုပ္လိုက္ပါ။ ထို႕ေနာက္ မိမိဖုန္းတြင္ media scanning completed ၿဖစ္တဲ့အထိေစာင့္ေပးပါ ။ ဒါဆိုလုပ္ငန္းစဥ္အားလံုးၿပီးဆံုးသြားပီၿဖစ္ပီး
သင့္ရဲ႕ဖုန္းေလးဟာ Jelly Bean 4.1 ေမာင္းႏွင္ေနတဲ့ ဖုန္းေလးၿဖစ္လို႕သြားပါၿပီ ။
( Optional )
အကယ္ေရြ႕ မူရင္းပါတဲ့ boot animation ဟာေႏွးေကြးတယ္လို႕ယူဆရင္ sd card ထဲေကာ္ပီကူးထားတဲ့
signed_JellyBlastBootanimationFix.zip ဆိုတဲ့ဖိုင္ကို recovery mode ထဲသြားပီး အေပၚကနည္းအတိုင္း install ၿပဳလုပ္ႏိုင္ပါတယ္ ။
အကယ္ေရြ႕ အထက္မွာၿပထားတဲ့ ပံုအတိုင္း Galaxy Nexus မွ softkey ကိုလိုခ်င္ရင္ ေအာက္မွာေပးထားတဲ့လင့္ကိုေဒါင္းလုဒ္ၿပဳလုပ္ပီး အထက္ကနည္းအတိုင္း recovery mode ထဲမွအင္စေတာၿပဳလုပ္ႏိုင္ပါတယ္ ။
Htet Wai Yan Tun ေရတင္လိုက္ပီဗ်ိဳးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးး
အားလံုးအဆင္ေၿပႏိုင္ၾကပါေစ။
Thet Ko
Category: Android OS application မ်ား, Android OS game မ်ား, Android ROM, Android Tutorials, Android ဖုန္း root လုပ္နည္းမ်ား
Galaxy Y S-5360 သမားမ်ားအတြက္ Custom Jelly Bean RomGalaxy Y S-5360 သမားမ်ားအတြက္ Custom Jelly Bean Rom myarmar mobile app မွၿပန္လည္တင္ၿပေပးပါသည္...Smart Stay v1.3.4.3 for Android
Smart Stay v1.3.4.3 for Android
Samsung S3 မွာပါတဲ့ Smart Stay လုိ႕ေခၚတဲ့ feature ကုိတျခား android ဖုန္းေတြမွာအသုံးျပဳခ်င္သူေတြအတြက္ပါ။ Smart Stay ဆုိတာကေတာ့ ဖုန္း screen ကုိကိုယ္က ၾကည့္ေနသေရြ႕ ဖုန္း screen ကုိလက္နဲ႕မထိရင္ေတာင္ ဖုန္းက screen ကုိဒီအတုိင္းပဲထားေပးမွာပါ။ အကယ္၍ ဖုန္းကုိမၾကည့္ဘဲထားလိုက္မယ္ ဒါမွမဟုတ္ မ်က္လုံးမွိတ္အိပ္ေပ်ာ္သြားတယ္ဆုိရင္ေတာ့ Screen ကုိ auto မွိတ္ေပးမွာပါ။
အခု အဲဒီ features ကုိ တျခား Android ဖုန္းေတြမွာသုံးခ်င္တယ္ဆုိရင္ေတာ့ ေအာက္မွာေပးထားတဲ့ apk ေလးကုိသြင္းလုိက္ပါ။
ဒီ app ေလးကုိသြင္းဖုိ႕အတြက္ ဖုန္းက Android version 2.3 ႏွင့္အထက္ရွိဖုိ႕လုိပါတယ္။ ေအာက္က link မွာရယူနုိင္ပါတယ္။
Smart Stay v1.3.4.3 for Android အားရယူရန္
Sunday, 19 August 2012
Make Your Own Piezoelectric Pickup for Acoustic Guitar
Make Your Own Piezoelectric Pickup for Acoustic Guitar
Experimental Procedure- Do your background research so that you are knowledgeable about the terms, concepts, and questions, above. Making the Pickup
Note: this procedure is from a webpage by Adam Kumpf (Kumpf, date unknown). - The heart of the pickup is a piezo buzzer element. You can find these for just a couple dollars at your local parts store (Radio Shack). Sometimes the Piezo Buzzer packages don't have that much information on them, but you want to find things as close as possible to the information listed above in the Materials and Equipment section. In other words, they are pretty cheap so go for a good one. Also note that you do not need a fully functional buzzer device, just the piezo element.
- A word about Piezo Elements. Piezo elements are made from two conductors separated by a layer of piezo crystals. When a voltage is applied across the crystal layer, the crystals pull on one side and push on the other. This in turn bends the metal conductor layers. When a sinusoidal signal (audio) is applied, the conductors are pushed and pulled very quickly, creating sound waves. The beauty of the Piezo element is that it also works in reverse. If sound waves push and pull on the conductors, an electrical signal is created and can be output to an amplifier or recording device. This is exactly how we will use the Piezo Buzzer element in this project. It will be attached to the inside of the guitar body, and, as the body vibrates, the sound will be turned into an electric signal by the Piezo buzzer element.
- Now that you have the Piezo Buzzer, you need to carefully break it open and get out the piezo element. Be careful not to hurt the metal device inside. Bending the element may cause it to break or lose some of its sensitivity.
- You are now ready to solder the device together. Strip the ends of the shielded audio cable. On one end connect the signal wire to the center of the Piezo element and the ground/shielding to the metal/brass surface of the piezo element. On the other end of the shielded wire, connect the signal wire to the signal tab on the 1/4 in audio jack and connect the shielding to the ground tab.
- Optional: We [the original author, Adam Kumpf] have found that a small piece of medium density foam improves the performance of the pickup over a large number of frequencies. Cut a piece of foam the same size of your piezo element and about 3/8" tall. Place a large drop of hot glue on the back side of the piezo element (where the wires connect) and then press the foam on until the glue cools.
- Your piezo pickup device should now be ready to install. You may want to make sure it is working by plugging it into an amp (with a guitar cable) and lightly tapping on it. Here is a picture of the finished device, ready for installation (Kumpf, date unknown):
Installing the Pickup - Mark where the hole will be in the body of the guitar. Unless you are handy with a soldering iron and have an endpin-jack on-hand, do not place your hole in the end of the guitar. This is where the pin that holds the strap is located. There is a block of wood there and the provided jack will not work in this position. I recommend marking the hole about halfway through the curve on the end of the guitar. It is, however, up to you where you choose to put it. Be creative! You will probably want to mark the spot with pencil first, then take the tip of the drill bit and twist on the mark by hand (not in the drill) to make a small indentation in the wood, as seen in Figure 1. Endpin jacks are a stronger and more professional solution, but will also probably double the cost of this project for you.
Figure 1. Mark the hole before drilling the guitar. Use the point of the drill bit to make an indentation in the wood (by hand) so the bit won't slip when you start drilling (Kumpf, date unknown). - Next we must drill the hole. This is the most difficult part of the installation process. It is in your best interest to take the tension off of the strings to get rid of forces that may be pulling on the wood. You may want to practice drilling holes on a scrap piece of wood if available to get a feel for the drill. Using a good sharp 3/8" spade bit, as seen in Figure 2, very slowly (fast drill speed, very little pressure) and carefully drill the hole in the body. Be steady and smooth or you may cause the body of the guitar to splinter around the hole.
Figure 2. Drill the hole with light, steady pressure so as not to splinter the wood around the hole (Kumpf, date unknown). - Carefully clean the edges of the hole, shown in Figure 3. Take the washer and nut off of the 1/4" jack. You must now feed the jack into the guitar body and direct it towards the hole you just drilled. Depending on the size of your hand, you may need to take the strings completely off to get your hand in far enough to guide the jack towards the hole. I usually just loosen the strings, (very loose) and squeeze my hand in as far as it will go. It is almost certain that you will not be able to reach the drilled hole. This is okay. Just be patient and keep fishing for it. You may find it helpful to use something such as a paper clip or a pencil to help guide you through the hole. Once it is through, put the washer and nut back onto the jack to hold it in place. Do not overtighten the nut. Make it too loose and it will come off. Make it too tight and you will have a guitar with a crack in it. A little loose is better than too tight! If you are worried about the strength of the jack in the side of the guitar, you can easily make a sheet-metal washer for the inside of the guitar to help support it.
Figure 3. This photo shows the completed hole, after clean-up (Kumpf, date unknown). - You are now going to mount the piezo element. This step is a very important part if you want your guitar to have a nice sound. Be careful with the element. Piezo pickups can be broken if you bend them. Although it may seem odd, your pickup will produce a much better sound if you mount it hanging off of the guitar, 50-50. In other words, half of the element (brass side) is taped to the bridge (or a brace), and the other half is hanging out in mid-air. The best place to mount the piezo element is on the back side of the bridge. (the side towards the endpin) To apply the pickup, take a piece of double-stick tape, just enough to cover half of the element, and place it on the element. You may also want to use hot glue once you have found the best place on the guitar, as this improves the 0.4k–1.0 kHz range of the pickup. A lot of people also use a sticky-putty, available at a local office supply store. The half of the pickup with tape (or glue or putty) will be the part that sticks to wood on the inside of the guitar (see Figure 4). The other half will be hanging off. Try to keep the adhesive (tape/hot glue/putty) as thin as possible as this will help overall performance. It is also important to note that the placement of the piezo element can also be used to boost frequencies from 0.25–3.0 kHz depending on how much of the device hangs in mid-air. Play around with different placements if you want your guitar to have a unique sound. Typically, the closer the pickup is to the bridge, the warmer the sound.
Figure 4. Mount the piezo element to the underside of the bridge, inside the guitar. You may want to experiment with different mounting positions to see how they affect the sound. You may also want to try with and without medium density foam (Kumpf, date unknown). - The hard part of the installation is over. Now for the finishing touches. First, you must secure the loose wire that runs from the pickup to the jack so that it does not flop back-and-forth when someone you the guitar. Go in through the sound-hole and place generous pieces of masking tape to secure the wire. Next you may want to snug the nut on the jack to finalize its placement. Then tighten up the strings and plug it in! That's it. You just made your acoustic guitar into an acoustic/electric!
Figure 5. This photo shows the completed installation of the audio jack (Kumpf, date unknown).
Variations
- Investigate how placement of the piezoelectric transducer affects the sound quality. For example, do you really get better sound quality with the piezo element hanging partially in air?
- Investigate how the sound quality changes when the piezoelectric transducer is mounted with medium-density foam between it and the underside of the bridge, vs. when the transducer is attached directly to the underside of the bridge.
- More advanced students can use sound analysis software to measure the response of the piezoelectric transducer as a function of sound frequency (power spectrum plot).
- For an experiment on making electric guitar pickups, see the Science Buddies project Make Your Own Electric Guitar Pickup.
- For more science project ideas in this area of science, see Music Project Ideas.
Sources
This procedure from this project is from a webpage by Adam Kumpf, a masters student in Media Arts and Sciences at the MIT Media Lab:
- Kumpf, A., date unknown. "Make Your Own Acoustic Guitar Pickup," Adam Kumpf @ MIT [accessed September 26, 2007] http://web.mit.edu/kumpf/www/guitarpickup.html. မွၿပန္လည္တင္ၿပေပးပါသည္...
22W into 4 Ohm power amplifier, Variable Low Pass Frequency: 70 - 150Hz
This unit is intended to be connected to an existing car stereo amplifier, adding the often required extra "punch" to the music by driving a subwoofer. As very low frequencies are omnidirectional, a single amplifier is necessary to drive this dedicated loudspeaker. The power amplifier used is a good and cheap BTL (Bridge Tied Load) 13 pin IC made by Philips (now NXP Semiconductors) requiring a very low parts count and capable of delivering about 22W into a 4 Ohm load at the standard car battery voltage of 14.4V.
Circuit diagram:
Parts:
P1_____________10K Log Potentiometer
P2_____________22K Dual gang Linear Potentiometer
R1,R4___________1K 1/4W Resistors
R2,R3,R5,R6____10K 1/4W Resistors
R7,R8_________100K 1/4W Resistors
R9,R10,R13_____47K 1/4W Resistors
R11,R12________15K 1/4W Resistors
R14,R15,R17____47K 1/4W Resistors
R16_____________6K8 1/4W Resistor
R18_____________1K5 1/4W Resistor
C1,C2,C3,C6_____4µ7 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C4,C5__________68nF 63V Polyester Capacitors
C7_____________33nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C8,C9_________220µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C10___________470nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C11___________100nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C12__________2200µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1______________LED any color and type
Q1,Q2_________BC547 45V 100mA NPN Transistors
IC1___________TL072 Dual BIFET Op-Amp
IC2_________TDA1516BQ 24W BTL Car Radio Power Amplifier IC
SW1____________DPDT toggle or slide Switch
SW2____________SPST toggle or slide Switch capable of withstanding a current of at least 3A
J1,J2__________RCA audio input sockets
SPKR___________4 Ohm Woofer or two 8 Ohm Woofers wired in parallel
Circuit description:The stereo signals coming from the line outputs of the car radio amplifier are mixed at the input and, after the Level Control, the signal enters the buffer IC1A and can be phase reversed by means of SW1. This control can be useful to allow the subwoofer to be in phase with the loudspeakers of the existing car radio. Then, a 12dB/octave variable frequency Low Pass filter built around IC1B, Q1 and related components follows, allowing to adjust precisely the low pass frequency from 70 to 150Hz. Q2, R17 and C9 form a simple dc voltage stabilizer for the input and filter circuitry, useful to avoid positive rail interaction from the power amplifier to low level sections.
Notes:
Output power (1KHz sinewave):
22W RMS into 4 Ohms at 14.4V supply
Sensitivity:
250mV input for full output
Frequency response:
20Hz to 70Hz -3dB with the cursor of P2 fully rotated towards R12
20Hz to 150Hz -3dB with the cursor of P2 fully rotated towards R11
Total harmonic distortion:
17W RMS: 0.5% 22W RMS: 10%
This unit is intended to be connected to an existing car stereo amplifier, adding the often required extra "punch" to the music by driving a subwoofer. As very low frequencies are omnidirectional, a single amplifier is necessary to drive this dedicated loudspeaker. The power amplifier used is a good and cheap BTL (Bridge Tied Load) 13 pin IC made by Philips (now NXP Semiconductors) requiring a very low parts count and capable of delivering about 22W into a 4 Ohm load at the standard car battery voltage of 14.4V.
Circuit diagram:
P1_____________10K Log Potentiometer
P2_____________22K Dual gang Linear Potentiometer
R1,R4___________1K 1/4W Resistors
R2,R3,R5,R6____10K 1/4W Resistors
R7,R8_________100K 1/4W Resistors
R9,R10,R13_____47K 1/4W Resistors
R11,R12________15K 1/4W Resistors
R14,R15,R17____47K 1/4W Resistors
R16_____________6K8 1/4W Resistor
R18_____________1K5 1/4W Resistor
C1,C2,C3,C6_____4µ7 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C4,C5__________68nF 63V Polyester Capacitors
C7_____________33nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C8,C9_________220µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C10___________470nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C11___________100nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C12__________2200µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1______________LED any color and type
Q1,Q2_________BC547 45V 100mA NPN Transistors
IC1___________TL072 Dual BIFET Op-Amp
IC2_________TDA1516BQ 24W BTL Car Radio Power Amplifier IC
SW1____________DPDT toggle or slide Switch
SW2____________SPST toggle or slide Switch capable of withstanding a current of at least 3A
J1,J2__________RCA audio input sockets
SPKR___________4 Ohm Woofer or two 8 Ohm Woofers wired in parallel
Circuit description:The stereo signals coming from the line outputs of the car radio amplifier are mixed at the input and, after the Level Control, the signal enters the buffer IC1A and can be phase reversed by means of SW1. This control can be useful to allow the subwoofer to be in phase with the loudspeakers of the existing car radio. Then, a 12dB/octave variable frequency Low Pass filter built around IC1B, Q1 and related components follows, allowing to adjust precisely the low pass frequency from 70 to 150Hz. Q2, R17 and C9 form a simple dc voltage stabilizer for the input and filter circuitry, useful to avoid positive rail interaction from the power amplifier to low level sections.
Notes:
- IC2 must be mounted on a suitable finned heatsink
- Due to the long time constant set by R17 and C9 in the dc voltage stabilizer, the whole amplifier will become fully operative about 15 - 30 sec. after switch-on.
Output power (1KHz sinewave):
22W RMS into 4 Ohms at 14.4V supply
Sensitivity:
250mV input for full output
Frequency response:
20Hz to 70Hz -3dB with the cursor of P2 fully rotated towards R12
20Hz to 150Hz -3dB with the cursor of P2 fully rotated towards R11
Total harmonic distortion:
17W RMS: 0.5% 22W RMS: 10%
Author: RedCircuits - Copyright: www.redcircuits.com
Circuit
High Power LED mood Lamp
Introduction
In this page we will introduce a great project designed by Toon Beerten. His project named "DIY Led Mood Lamp" can become a very interesting add-on for your room that's absolutely sure it will impress everyone. As you can see on the photos, we talk about a color fading lamp, that looks amazing!
The purpose of this page is to try to give some hints building it successful. This high power led mood light is based on PIC16F628 and the ability of this mcu to produce PWM pulses. Varying pulse width we can produce millions of color combinations using only the three basic colors. So only one RGB (Red-Green-Blue) led is capable producing a rainbow of fading colors.
With the help of four switches we can handle all functions of the lamp. We can choose fading or jumping between colors, we can select a rainbow style or a random color changing behavior, we can choose slow or fast changing of colors and we can pause on a desired color.
Finally we will make some power dissipation measurements to help us select an appropriate power supply unit.
Housing for best color diffuse
You can use your imagination to find a housing that will be able to diffuse colors uniformly. Color difussion is necessary to achieve best results. In original design the author used the 45cm IKEA Mylonit lamp. That's a great housing for your lamp. Instead you can use the smaller 31cm IKEA Mylonit lamp with the same amazing results. That's the lamp we used in our construct
In our research we found other lamps (ex. sphere shape) that are ideal for housing your big led.
High Power LED
The led used is a high power 3W RGB LED. It can be found on ebay at LEDSEE-electronics. You can also check ebay for other high power RGB leds. It will do the jod the same way. Details of this brilliant led shown below.
3W high power RGB LED
Light Angle of the LED 140 degree°
Nominal current B,G,R 350mA
Forward voltage:
Red Typ 2,2V
Green Typ 3,55V
Blue Typ 3,55V
Wavelength of the LEDs:
Red Typ 625nm
Green Typ 530nm
Blue Typ 470nm
Luminous Intensity:
RED Typ 32lm
Green Typ 35lm
Blue Typ 10lm
LED type: Common Anode
Schematic
The schematic used is shown in the next image. It's as simple as it shows. Take care on the correct transistor mount and correct polarity of power source.
Parts List
Here is a list of the components i used for making the led mood lamp.
Circuit board
On the next image you can see the circuit arranged on a perforated board.
Programming The PIC 16F628 Microprocessor
Programming the PIC16F628 can be achieved using this very simple pic programmer and a program called ic-prog. Just use your programmer and upload the .hex file on your PIC. For successful results you should pay attention on the fuse bits. You should enter the correct fuses as noted on the following table.
Fuses
IntRC I/O = Enabled
PWRT = Enabled
BODEN = Enabled
MCLR = Disabled
Rest of fuses = Disabled
DIP Switches functions
SW1 - makes you choose between G->GB->B->BR->R->RG-->>G effect and random color change effect
SW2 - makes you choose between fading and jumping from one color to another
SW3 - makes you choose between slow or fast
SW4 - pauses at the current color displayed
Mounting
A good way to mount the circuit board is to use a hot glue gun to "mold" the circuit underneath the lamp housing. There is plenty of space there for your board. At the next photos you can see the circuit board mounted on the small 31cm IKEA Mylonit Lamp.
The glue is still hot. Temperature of glue didn't damage the PIC or other parts.
The glue is now cold and you can easily access the dip switches. Lamp is working!
A view from top of the lamp.
Power dissipation
Finally we have done some current measurements to measure power dissipation. It's clear that current changes as colors are changing. As you can see the max current needed is 232mA. You should keep in mind that this depends on the led you have and the power resistors you choose.
As a conclusion a power supply rated at 5V/500mA will be sufficient.
"အီလက္ထေရာနစ္ နည္းပညာ"မွၿပန္လည္တင္ၿပေပးပါသည္...
In this page we will introduce a great project designed by Toon Beerten. His project named "DIY Led Mood Lamp" can become a very interesting add-on for your room that's absolutely sure it will impress everyone. As you can see on the photos, we talk about a color fading lamp, that looks amazing!
The purpose of this page is to try to give some hints building it successful. This high power led mood light is based on PIC16F628 and the ability of this mcu to produce PWM pulses. Varying pulse width we can produce millions of color combinations using only the three basic colors. So only one RGB (Red-Green-Blue) led is capable producing a rainbow of fading colors.
With the help of four switches we can handle all functions of the lamp. We can choose fading or jumping between colors, we can select a rainbow style or a random color changing behavior, we can choose slow or fast changing of colors and we can pause on a desired color.Finally we will make some power dissipation measurements to help us select an appropriate power supply unit.
Housing for best color diffuse
You can use your imagination to find a housing that will be able to diffuse colors uniformly. Color difussion is necessary to achieve best results. In original design the author used the 45cm IKEA Mylonit lamp. That's a great housing for your lamp. Instead you can use the smaller 31cm IKEA Mylonit lamp with the same amazing results. That's the lamp we used in our construct
In our research we found other lamps (ex. sphere shape) that are ideal for housing your big led.High Power LED
The led used is a high power 3W RGB LED. It can be found on ebay at LEDSEE-electronics. You can also check ebay for other high power RGB leds. It will do the jod the same way. Details of this brilliant led shown below.
3W high power RGB LED
 Note: Minus on the bottom right pin is common anode (positive voltage) |
Light Angle of the LED 140 degree°
Nominal current B,G,R 350mA
Forward voltage:
Red Typ 2,2V
Green Typ 3,55V
Blue Typ 3,55V
Wavelength of the LEDs:
Red Typ 625nm
Green Typ 530nm
Blue Typ 470nm
Luminous Intensity:
RED Typ 32lm
Green Typ 35lm
Blue Typ 10lm
LED type: Common Anode
Schematic
The schematic used is shown in the next image. It's as simple as it shows. Take care on the correct transistor mount and correct polarity of power source.
Schematic (click image for higher resolution)
BC337 Pin out
Parts List
Here is a list of the components i used for making the led mood lamp.
- - 3 x NPN transistors capable of driving 500 mA, for example the BC337
- - one PIC 16F628(A) and a programmer
- - a small perforated circuit board
- - 7 x 10K resistors (1/4W)
- - some 1 watt resistors (4,7, 10 and 15 Ohm) and a DIP switch
- - a power supply (5 volts, 500 mA)
- - Ikea Mylonit lamp or other housing
- - silicon paste from your local DIY shop (if you want to use a heatsink)
- - one z-power 3 watt rgb led
- - a little heatsink and some cooling paste (if you want to use a heatsink)
Circuit board
On the next image you can see the circuit arranged on a perforated board.
Programming The PIC 16F628 MicroprocessorProgramming the PIC16F628 can be achieved using this very simple pic programmer and a program called ic-prog. Just use your programmer and upload the .hex file on your PIC. For successful results you should pay attention on the fuse bits. You should enter the correct fuses as noted on the following table.
Fuses
IntRC I/O = Enabled
PWRT = Enabled
BODEN = Enabled
MCLR = Disabled
Rest of fuses = Disabled
DIP Switches functions
SW1 - makes you choose between G->GB->B->BR->R->RG-->>G effect and random color change effect
SW2 - makes you choose between fading and jumping from one color to another
SW3 - makes you choose between slow or fast
SW4 - pauses at the current color displayed
Mounting
A good way to mount the circuit board is to use a hot glue gun to "mold" the circuit underneath the lamp housing. There is plenty of space there for your board. At the next photos you can see the circuit board mounted on the small 31cm IKEA Mylonit Lamp.
The glue is still hot. Temperature of glue didn't damage the PIC or other parts.The glue is now cold and you can easily access the dip switches. Lamp is working!A view from top of the lamp.Power dissipation
Finally we have done some current measurements to measure power dissipation. It's clear that current changes as colors are changing. As you can see the max current needed is 232mA. You should keep in mind that this depends on the led you have and the power resistors you choose.
As a conclusion a power supply rated at 5V/500mA will be sufficient.
"အီလက္ထေရာနစ္ နည္းပညာ"မွၿပန္လည္တင္ၿပေပးပါသည္...
ဖုန္းဝါသနာရွင္မ်ားဖုန္းကလိရန္ေဆာ ့ဖ္ဝဲလ္APK
ဖုန္းေခၚရာမွာအရမ္း အသုံးဝင္တဲ ့APK ေလးပါ
P
ProXimity-Talk-v1.24
Android Application ေလး ခပ္ဆန္းဆန္းေလးတမ်ိဳးပါ။ ဖုန္းဆိုင္ေတြမွာေတာင္ မရွိႏိုင္ေသး
ပါဘူး။ အမ်ိဳးေကာင္းသားဆီမွာေတြ႕လို႕စမ္းျပီးသံုးၾကည္႕တာေတာ္ေတာ္ေလးကိုအဆင္ေျပလို႕ သူငယ္ခ်င္း
ေတြကိုလည္း သံုးေစခ်င္လို႕ျပန္လည္မွ်ေ၀ေပးလိုက္ပါတယ္ဗ်ာ။ ဒီေကာင္ေလးက ဘယ္လိုမ်ိဳးလုပ္ေဆာင္
ေပးလည္းဆိုရင္ ဖုန္းလာတဲ႕အခါမွာ ဖုန္းကို နားရြက္နားကပ္လိုက္တာနဲ႕ ဖုန္းကိုင္ျပီး စကားေျပာဖို႕အဆင္
သင္႕ျဖစ္ေနပါျပီ။ ဖုန္းကို နားကေနခြာလိုက္တာနဲ႕ Auto Speaker ဖြင္႕ေပးပါတယ္။ ဖုန္းလာလို႕ Ring ျမည္
ေနခ်ိန္မွာ ဖုန္းရဲ႕မ်က္ႏွာျပင္ကိုေမွာက္လိုက္တာနဲ႕ ဖုန္းက Silent ျဖစ္သြားမွာပါ။ ဖုန္းကိုလႈပ္ခါလိုက္တာနဲ႕
ဖုန္းခ်သြားတဲ႕ Function ေတြပါ၀င္ပါတယ္။
Android Version 2.1 ႏွင္႕အထက္ဖုန္းမ်ားမွသာအဆင္ေျပ
မွာပါ။ သေဘာက်တယ္ဆိုရင္ေတာ႕ေအာက္က Link မွာေဒါင္းယူႏိုင္ပါတယ္ဗ်ာ။
roXimity-Talk-v1.24
ပါဘူး။ အမ်ိဳးေကာင္းသားဆီမွာေတြ႕လို႕စမ္းျပီးသံုးၾကည္႕တာေတာ္ေတာ္ေလးကိုအဆင္ေျပလို႕ သူငယ္ခ်င္း
ေတြကိုလည္း သံုးေစခ်င္လို႕ျပန္လည္မွ်ေ၀ေပးလိုက္ပါတယ္ဗ်ာ။ ဒီေကာင္ေလးက ဘယ္လိုမ်ိဳးလုပ္ေဆာင္
ေပးလည္းဆိုရင္ ဖုန္းလာတဲ႕အခါမွာ ဖုန္းကို နားရြက္နားကပ္လိုက္တာနဲ႕ ဖုန္းကိုင္ျပီး စကားေျပာဖို႕အဆင္
သင္႕ျဖစ္ေနပါျပီ။ ဖုန္းကို နားကေနခြာလိုက္တာနဲ႕ Auto Speaker ဖြင္႕ေပးပါတယ္။ ဖုန္းလာလို႕ Ring ျမည္
ေနခ်ိန္မွာ ဖုန္းရဲ႕မ်က္ႏွာျပင္ကိုေမွာက္လိုက္တာနဲ႕ ဖုန္းက Silent ျဖစ္သြားမွာပါ။ ဖုန္းကိုလႈပ္ခါလိုက္တာနဲ႕
ဖုန္းခ်သြားတဲ႕ Function ေတြပါ၀င္ပါတယ္။
Android Version 2.1 ႏွင္႕အထက္ဖုန္းမ်ားမွသာအဆင္ေျပ
မွာပါ။ သေဘာက်တယ္ဆိုရင္ေတာ႕ေအာက္က Link မွာေဒါင္းယူႏိုင္ပါတယ္ဗ်ာ။
Android Application ေလး ခပ္ဆန္းဆန္းေလးတမ်ိဳးပါ။ ဖုန္းဆိုင္ေတြမွာေတာင္ မရွိႏိုင္ေသး
ပါဘူး။ အမ်ိဳးေကာင္းသားဆီမွာေတြ႕လို႕စမ္းျပီးသံုးၾကည္႕တာေတာ္ေတာ္ေလးကိုအဆင္ေျပလို႕ သူငယ္ခ်င္း
ေတြကိုလည္း သံုးေစခ်င္လို႕ျပန္လည္မွ်ေ၀ေပးလိုက္ပါတယ္ဗ်ာ။ ဒီေကာင္ေလးက ဘယ္လိုမ်ိဳးလုပ္ေဆာင္
ေပးလည္းဆိုရင္ ဖုန္းလာတဲ႕အခါမွာ ဖုန္းကို နားရြက္နားကပ္လိုက္တာနဲ႕ ဖုန္းကိုင္ျပီး စကားေျပာဖို႕အဆင္
သင္႕ျဖစ္ေနပါျပီ။ ဖုန္းကို နားကေနခြာလိုက္တာနဲ႕ Auto Speaker ဖြင္႕ေပးပါတယ္။ ဖုန္းလာလို႕ Ring ျမည္
ေနခ်ိန္မွာ ဖုန္းရဲ႕မ်က္ႏွာျပင္ကိုေမွာက္လိုက္တာနဲ႕ ဖုန္းက Silent ျဖစ္သြားမွာပါ။ ဖုန္းကိုလႈပ္ခါလိုက္တာနဲ႕
ဖုန္းခ်သြားတဲ႕ Function ေတြပါ၀င္ပါတယ္။
Android Version 2.1 ႏွင္႕အထက္ဖုန္းမ်ားမွသာအဆင္ေျပ
မွာပါ။ သေဘာက်တယ္ဆိုရင္ေတာ႕ေအာက္က Link မွာေဒါင္းယူႏိုင္ပါတယ္ဗ်ာ။
http://pyaephyothu.minus.com/mbooxdqfUE/1gမွၿပန္လည္တင္ၿပေပးပါသည္...
Saturday, 18 August 2012
တစ္ေသာင္းတန္ ဖုန္းကတ္ကို ပိုက္ဆံမကုန္ေအာင္ ဟတ္နည္း(သယ္ရင္းေတာ္ေတာ္မ်ားမ်ား လုပ္တတ္ၾကမွာပါ)
သူငယ္ခ်င္းမ်ားကို တစ္ျခား ဆိုဒ္မွာ မတင္ဘဲ ဒီဆိုဒ္မွာ ပဲတင္ေပးတာပါ...လူသိမ်ားရင္မေကာင္းဘူးေလ.....
သူငယ္ခ်င္းမ်ားအသံုးျပဳေနၾကတဲ႕ မိုဘိုင္း ဖုန္းမ်ားတြင္ထည္႕သြင္းအသံုးျပဳလာရသည္႕ တစ္ေသာင္းတန္ ကတ္ မ်ားကို ဟတ္မယ္
ဆိုရင္ေတာ့ ပထမဆံုး..... ေငြကတ္ျဖည္႕ရင္ *123*ရုိတ္ရမဲ႕ေနရာမွာ *123* ရဲ႕ေရွ႕မွာ မိမိဖုန္းနံပါတ္ကို အရင္ဦးဆံုး
ရိုတ္ထည္႕လိုက္ပါ....ဦးစားေပးစဥ္းစားရမွာတစ္ခုက
နံပါတ္ေတြမ်ားေနတဲ႕အတြက္ မမွားေအာင္ဂရုစိုက္ရမွာပဲျဖစ္ပါတယ္......
ကၽြန္ေတာ္ေျပာတာရႈပ္ေနရင္ ျပန္ေျပာျပပါ့မယ္.... *123*......passwod........# ဆိုတာဖုန္းကတ္သြင္းတိုင္း ရိုတ္ရတာ ထံုးစံပါ...
ကၽြန္ေတာ္ေျပာခ်င္တာက *123*......passwod........# ရဲ႕ေရွ႕မွာ မိမိဖုန္းနံပါတ္ ကို 09........ ဆိုျပီးရိုတ္ထည္႕ျပီး ဖုန္းတစ္ခါ ဆက္ျပီးတိုင္း
09........*123*......passwod........#ကိုေခၚဖို႕မေမ့ပါနဲ႕...အဲဒါဆိုရင္ေတာ့ ဖုန္းမေခၚခင္ထဲက မိမိဖုန္းထဲမွာ ရွိတဲ႕ ပိုက္ဆံကို နဂိုမူလ
အတိုင္း ဆက္လက္က်န္ရွိေနမွာျဖစ္တယ္လို႕ မေန႕က ကၽြန္ေတာ္အိပ္မက္ ထဲကအေၾကာင္းကိုေဖာက္သည္ျပန္ခ်လိုက္ရပါတယ္
<a href="http://kopaelay.blogspot.com/2012/08/blog-post_7168.html">မွၿပန္လည္တင္ၿပေပးပါသည္...
Circuit
Guitar Fuzz Effect
Parts |
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ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း
၀၀၁။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၁) (၇.၅.၂၀၁၀-ညေန)
၀၀၂။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၂) (၇.၅.၂၀၁၀-ည)
၀၀၃။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၃) (၈.၅.၂၀၁၀-နံနက္)
၀၀၄။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၄) (၈.၅.၂၀၁၀-နံနက္)
၀၀၅။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၅) (၈.၅.၂၀၁၀-ေန႕လည္)
၀၀၆။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၆) (၈.၅.၂၀၁၀-ညေန)
၀၀၇။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၇) (၈.၅.၂၀၁၀-ည)
၀၀၈။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၈) (၉.၅.၂၀၁၀-နံနက္)
၀၀၉။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၉) (၉.၅.၂၀၁၀-ေန႕)
၀၁၀။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၁၀) (၉.၅.၂၀၁၀-ညေန)
၀၁၁။ ေသာတပန္ျဖစ္ေၾကာင္း- အပုိင္း(၁၁) (၉.၅.၂၀၁၀-ည)
Circuit
Classic LED Flasher Circuit
This LED flasher circuit is a classic two transistor flip flop. This flasher circuit is very popular and it’s usually the first circuit to build when starting electronic circuit building hobby. Here is the schematic diagram of the famous LED flasher circuit:
How LED Flasher Circuit Works
The circuit consist of two transistors, two capacitors, four resistors, and two LEDs. When the power supply is first connected to this LED flasher circuit, both transistor is racing to be triggered first by the base current through 100k resistor. Actually when one transistor is triggered first than the other, the first activated transistor will behave like a closed switch, so the LED will turn ON and the base of the other transistor will be grounded through the capacitor. This grounding keep the first transistor to be activated and the second one to stay off untill the capacitor is charged above the bias voltage needed to activate the second transistor. After reaching this voltage, the second transistor will be switched on and now the second transistor will turn ON the LED on its collector, turning off the first transistor by grounding its base through the second capacitor. This alternating process will be repeated forever until the power supply is turned off. The flashing rate will depend on the resistors (100k) and the capacitors values. You can change the values of the capacitors to change the flashing frequency. Use a higher capacitance value for lower flashing rate, and vice verse.
Circuit
12V To 24V DC-DC Converter Circuit
Parts |
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Notes |
- R6 sets the output voltage. This can be calculated by Vout = 12 x (R8/(R8+R7)) x (R6B/R6A).
- L1 is made by winding 60 turns of 0.63MM magnet wire on a toroidial core measuring 15MM (OD) by 8MM (ID) by 6MM (H).
- D2 can be any fast recovery diode rated at greater then 100V at 5A. It is very important that the diode be fast recovery and not a standard rectifier.
- Q1 will need a heatsink.
Samsung Galaxy Y GT-S5360
How to Root the Samsung Galaxy Y GT-S5360
The Galaxy Y (GT-S5360) has been around for enough time and been popular enough to catch the eyes of the developers and has hence been rooted, paving the way for custom ROMs on this affordable device. This How To will show you how to take that first step and experience at least some of what the big guns get to do.
2. Enable USB Debugging on the Galaxy Y – to do this, head to Settings -> Applications -> Development and check the box next to Enable USB Debugging.
3. Make sure that Samsung Kies or any other application that might interfere with the process are running on your Windows PC.
4. Create a backup of all your data before proceeding – this is not mandatory but it’s always good to have something to roll back to if anything goes wrong.
2. Copy the downloaded update.zip file to the top folder of the microSD card – do not extract it.
3. If plugged in, unplug the handset from the PC and turn it off.
4. Put it into recovery mode – to do this, press and hold the volume up key + home key (the middle button on the front of your device) and press the power button until it goes into recovery mode.
5. Select Apply update from SD card and locate the update.zip file you copied to the microSD card. Press the volume up or down to navigate and then the power button to select the option.
6. Let the rooting process complete. When done, select Reboot system now to restart the device.
Your Galaxy Y should now be rooted!!
I. Before You Begin
1. A full charge is recommended to prevent any mishaps due to the battery draining out during the procedure.2. Enable USB Debugging on the Galaxy Y – to do this, head to Settings -> Applications -> Development and check the box next to Enable USB Debugging.
3. Make sure that Samsung Kies or any other application that might interfere with the process are running on your Windows PC.
4. Create a backup of all your data before proceeding – this is not mandatory but it’s always good to have something to roll back to if anything goes wrong.
II. Rooting the Phone
1. Download the necessary root package here.2. Copy the downloaded update.zip file to the top folder of the microSD card – do not extract it.
3. If plugged in, unplug the handset from the PC and turn it off.
4. Put it into recovery mode – to do this, press and hold the volume up key + home key (the middle button on the front of your device) and press the power button until it goes into recovery mode.
5. Select Apply update from SD card and locate the update.zip file you copied to the microSD card. Press the volume up or down to navigate and then the power button to select the option.
6. Let the rooting process complete. When done, select Reboot system now to restart the device.
Your Galaxy Y should now be rooted!!
Galaxy Y S-5360 သမားမ်ားအတြက္ Custom Jelly Bean Rom
ဒီကာစတန္ရြန္ေလးကေတာ့ Galaxy Y S-5360 သမားေတြအတြက္ Jelly Bean Custom Rom ေလးပဲၿဖစ္ပါတယ္ ။ ကို Htet Wai Yan Tun ဖုန္းမွာ
ေအာင္ၿမင္စြာစမ္းသပ္ပီးၿဖစ္လို႕ တၿခား Galaxy Y သမားမ်ား JB နဲ႕လန္းရေအာင္ doc လုပ္ပီးတင္ေပးတင္ေပးလိုက္ပါတယ္ ။
Custom Rom သံုးမယ္ဆိုမိမိဖုန္းဟာ အၿမစ္တူးၿပီးသားၿဖစ္ဖို႕လိုအပ္ပါတယ္ ။ Root မလုပ္ရေသးတဲ့သူမ်ား ဒီလင့္မွာၾကည့္ပီး လုပ္ႏုိင္ပါတယ္ ။
ပထမဦးစြာ မိမိဖုန္းရဲ႕ အေရးၾကီးေဒတာမ်ားကို မိမိႏွစ္သက္ရာ app နဲ႕ backup လုပ္ထားေစခ်င္ပါတယ္ ။
ကဲလုပ္ငန္းးစဥ္ေလးစလိုက္ၾကရေအာင္ ။
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၁) ။ ပထမဦးစြာ Jelly Bean Custom Rom ကိုေအာက္ကလင့္ကေနတဆင့္ေဒါင္းေပးပါ ။
ဒါေလးကေတာ့ Status Bar Panel အတြက္ပါ ။
ဒါေလးကေတာ့ Boot Animation အတြက္ပါ ။
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၂) ။ ဒါင္းထားတဲ့ ဖိုင္သံုးခုကို SD card ထဲသို႕ေကာ္ပီကူး ထည့္လိုက္ပါ ။
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၃) ။ ဖုန္းကုိပါ၀ါပိတ္ shutdown လုပ္လိုက္ပါ ။
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၄) ။ ထို႕ေနာက္ Recovery mode ကိုသြားပါမယ္ ။ power button + Volume up + Home button ကိုတၿပိဳင္ထဲဖိထားေပးပါ ။
Galaxy Y လို႕စာတန္းစေပၚလာတာနဲ႕တၿပိဳင္ထဲဖိထားတာကို release လုပ္ေပးပါ ။ အဲဒီအခါ Recovery mode ထဲသို႕ေရာက္ရွိသြားပါလိမ့္မယ္ ။
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၅ )။ ထို႕ေနာက္ data နဲ႕ cache ကို wipe လုပ္ေပးပါ ။ ( မိမိေဒတာမ်ားအား ဖ်က္ပစ္မည္ၿဖစ္ေသာေၾကာင့္ အေရးၾကီး ေဒတာမ်ားအား ၾကိဳတင္ပီး ဘက္အပ္ၿပဳလုပ္ထားေစခ်င္ပါသည္ ။ )
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၆)။ ထို႕ေနာက္ install from sd card ဆိုတာကိုႏွိပ္လိုက္ပါ ။ အဲဒီေနာက္မွာ ဖုန္း sd card ထဲထည့္ ထားတဲ့ ဖိုင္ ၃ ခုအနက္က JellyBlastGenED.signed.zip ဆိုတဲ့ဖိုင္ကိုေရြးေပးလိုက္ပါ ။
ထို႕ေနာက္ Yes It will be installed ကိုႏွိပ္လိုက္ပါ ။ အဲဒီအခါမွာ လိုအပ္တဲ့ဖိုင္ေတြကို စပီး အင္စေတာၿပဳလုပ္ေနၿပီၿဖစ္ပါတယ္ ။
အမွတ္စဥ္ (၇) ။ အင္စေတာၿပဳလုပ္ပီးပါက မိမိဖုန္းအား reboot လုပ္လိုက္ပါ။ ထို႕ေနာက္ မိမိဖုန္းတြင္ media scanning completed ၿဖစ္တဲ့အထိေစာင့္ေပးပါ ။ ဒါဆိုလုပ္ငန္းစဥ္အားလံုးၿပီးဆံုးသြားပီၿဖစ္ပီး
သင့္ရဲ႕ဖုန္းေလးဟာ Jelly Bean 4.1 ေမာင္းႏွင္ေနတဲ့ ဖုန္းေလးၿဖစ္လို႕သြားပါၿပီ ။
( Optional )
အကယ္ေရြ႕ မူရင္းပါတဲ့ boot animation ဟာေႏွးေကြးတယ္လို႕ယူဆရင္ sd card ထဲေကာ္ပီကူးထားတဲ့
signed_JellyBlastBootanimationFix.zip ဆိုတဲ့ဖိုင္ကို recovery mode ထဲသြားပီး အေပၚကနည္းအတိုင္း install ၿပဳလုပ္ႏိုင္ပါတယ္ ။
အကယ္ေရြ႕ အထက္မွာၿပထားတဲ့ ပံုအတိုင္း Galaxy Nexus မွ softkey ကိုလိုခ်င္ရင္ ေအာက္မွာေပးထားတဲ့လင့္ကိုေဒါင္းလုဒ္ၿပဳလုပ္ပီး အထက္ကနည္းအတိုင္း recovery mode ထဲမွအင္စေတာၿပဳလုပ္ႏိုင္ပါတယ္ ။
Htet Wai Yan Tun ေရတင္လိုက္ပီဗ်ိဳးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးးး
အားလံုးအဆင္ေၿပႏိုင္ၾကပါေစ။
Thet Ko
Category: Android OS application မ်ား, Android OS game မ်ား, Android ROM, Android Tutorials, Android ဖုန္း root လုပ္နည္းမ်ား
Galaxy Y S-5360 သမားမ်ားအတြက္ Custom Jelly Bean RomGalaxy Y S-5360 သမားမ်ားအတြက္ Custom Jelly Bean Rom myarmar mobile app မွၿပန္လည္တင္ၿပေပးပါသည္...Smart Stay v1.3.4.3 for Android
Smart Stay v1.3.4.3 for Android
Samsung S3 မွာပါတဲ့ Smart Stay လုိ႕ေခၚတဲ့ feature ကုိတျခား android ဖုန္းေတြမွာအသုံးျပဳခ်င္သူေတြအတြက္ပါ။ Smart Stay ဆုိတာကေတာ့ ဖုန္း screen ကုိကိုယ္က ၾကည့္ေနသေရြ႕ ဖုန္း screen ကုိလက္နဲ႕မထိရင္ေတာင္ ဖုန္းက screen ကုိဒီအတုိင္းပဲထားေပးမွာပါ။ အကယ္၍ ဖုန္းကုိမၾကည့္ဘဲထားလိုက္မယ္ ဒါမွမဟုတ္ မ်က္လုံးမွိတ္အိပ္ေပ်ာ္သြားတယ္ဆုိရင္ေတာ့ Screen ကုိ auto မွိတ္ေပးမွာပါ။
အခု အဲဒီ features ကုိ တျခား Android ဖုန္းေတြမွာသုံးခ်င္တယ္ဆုိရင္ေတာ့ ေအာက္မွာေပးထားတဲ့ apk ေလးကုိသြင္းလုိက္ပါ။
ဒီ app ေလးကုိသြင္းဖုိ႕အတြက္ ဖုန္းက Android version 2.3 ႏွင့္အထက္ရွိဖုိ႕လုိပါတယ္။ ေအာက္က link မွာရယူနုိင္ပါတယ္။
Smart Stay v1.3.4.3 for Android အားရယူရန္
Make Your Own Piezoelectric Pickup for Acoustic Guitar
Make Your Own Piezoelectric Pickup for Acoustic Guitar
Experimental Procedure- Do your background research so that you are knowledgeable about the terms, concepts, and questions, above. Making the Pickup
Note: this procedure is from a webpage by Adam Kumpf (Kumpf, date unknown). - The heart of the pickup is a piezo buzzer element. You can find these for just a couple dollars at your local parts store (Radio Shack). Sometimes the Piezo Buzzer packages don't have that much information on them, but you want to find things as close as possible to the information listed above in the Materials and Equipment section. In other words, they are pretty cheap so go for a good one. Also note that you do not need a fully functional buzzer device, just the piezo element.
- A word about Piezo Elements. Piezo elements are made from two conductors separated by a layer of piezo crystals. When a voltage is applied across the crystal layer, the crystals pull on one side and push on the other. This in turn bends the metal conductor layers. When a sinusoidal signal (audio) is applied, the conductors are pushed and pulled very quickly, creating sound waves. The beauty of the Piezo element is that it also works in reverse. If sound waves push and pull on the conductors, an electrical signal is created and can be output to an amplifier or recording device. This is exactly how we will use the Piezo Buzzer element in this project. It will be attached to the inside of the guitar body, and, as the body vibrates, the sound will be turned into an electric signal by the Piezo buzzer element.
- Now that you have the Piezo Buzzer, you need to carefully break it open and get out the piezo element. Be careful not to hurt the metal device inside. Bending the element may cause it to break or lose some of its sensitivity.
- You are now ready to solder the device together. Strip the ends of the shielded audio cable. On one end connect the signal wire to the center of the Piezo element and the ground/shielding to the metal/brass surface of the piezo element. On the other end of the shielded wire, connect the signal wire to the signal tab on the 1/4 in audio jack and connect the shielding to the ground tab.
- Optional: We [the original author, Adam Kumpf] have found that a small piece of medium density foam improves the performance of the pickup over a large number of frequencies. Cut a piece of foam the same size of your piezo element and about 3/8" tall. Place a large drop of hot glue on the back side of the piezo element (where the wires connect) and then press the foam on until the glue cools.
- Your piezo pickup device should now be ready to install. You may want to make sure it is working by plugging it into an amp (with a guitar cable) and lightly tapping on it. Here is a picture of the finished device, ready for installation (Kumpf, date unknown):
Installing the Pickup - Mark where the hole will be in the body of the guitar. Unless you are handy with a soldering iron and have an endpin-jack on-hand, do not place your hole in the end of the guitar. This is where the pin that holds the strap is located. There is a block of wood there and the provided jack will not work in this position. I recommend marking the hole about halfway through the curve on the end of the guitar. It is, however, up to you where you choose to put it. Be creative! You will probably want to mark the spot with pencil first, then take the tip of the drill bit and twist on the mark by hand (not in the drill) to make a small indentation in the wood, as seen in Figure 1. Endpin jacks are a stronger and more professional solution, but will also probably double the cost of this project for you.
Figure 1. Mark the hole before drilling the guitar. Use the point of the drill bit to make an indentation in the wood (by hand) so the bit won't slip when you start drilling (Kumpf, date unknown). - Next we must drill the hole. This is the most difficult part of the installation process. It is in your best interest to take the tension off of the strings to get rid of forces that may be pulling on the wood. You may want to practice drilling holes on a scrap piece of wood if available to get a feel for the drill. Using a good sharp 3/8" spade bit, as seen in Figure 2, very slowly (fast drill speed, very little pressure) and carefully drill the hole in the body. Be steady and smooth or you may cause the body of the guitar to splinter around the hole.
Figure 2. Drill the hole with light, steady pressure so as not to splinter the wood around the hole (Kumpf, date unknown). - Carefully clean the edges of the hole, shown in Figure 3. Take the washer and nut off of the 1/4" jack. You must now feed the jack into the guitar body and direct it towards the hole you just drilled. Depending on the size of your hand, you may need to take the strings completely off to get your hand in far enough to guide the jack towards the hole. I usually just loosen the strings, (very loose) and squeeze my hand in as far as it will go. It is almost certain that you will not be able to reach the drilled hole. This is okay. Just be patient and keep fishing for it. You may find it helpful to use something such as a paper clip or a pencil to help guide you through the hole. Once it is through, put the washer and nut back onto the jack to hold it in place. Do not overtighten the nut. Make it too loose and it will come off. Make it too tight and you will have a guitar with a crack in it. A little loose is better than too tight! If you are worried about the strength of the jack in the side of the guitar, you can easily make a sheet-metal washer for the inside of the guitar to help support it.
Figure 3. This photo shows the completed hole, after clean-up (Kumpf, date unknown). - You are now going to mount the piezo element. This step is a very important part if you want your guitar to have a nice sound. Be careful with the element. Piezo pickups can be broken if you bend them. Although it may seem odd, your pickup will produce a much better sound if you mount it hanging off of the guitar, 50-50. In other words, half of the element (brass side) is taped to the bridge (or a brace), and the other half is hanging out in mid-air. The best place to mount the piezo element is on the back side of the bridge. (the side towards the endpin) To apply the pickup, take a piece of double-stick tape, just enough to cover half of the element, and place it on the element. You may also want to use hot glue once you have found the best place on the guitar, as this improves the 0.4k–1.0 kHz range of the pickup. A lot of people also use a sticky-putty, available at a local office supply store. The half of the pickup with tape (or glue or putty) will be the part that sticks to wood on the inside of the guitar (see Figure 4). The other half will be hanging off. Try to keep the adhesive (tape/hot glue/putty) as thin as possible as this will help overall performance. It is also important to note that the placement of the piezo element can also be used to boost frequencies from 0.25–3.0 kHz depending on how much of the device hangs in mid-air. Play around with different placements if you want your guitar to have a unique sound. Typically, the closer the pickup is to the bridge, the warmer the sound.
Figure 4. Mount the piezo element to the underside of the bridge, inside the guitar. You may want to experiment with different mounting positions to see how they affect the sound. You may also want to try with and without medium density foam (Kumpf, date unknown). - The hard part of the installation is over. Now for the finishing touches. First, you must secure the loose wire that runs from the pickup to the jack so that it does not flop back-and-forth when someone you the guitar. Go in through the sound-hole and place generous pieces of masking tape to secure the wire. Next you may want to snug the nut on the jack to finalize its placement. Then tighten up the strings and plug it in! That's it. You just made your acoustic guitar into an acoustic/electric!
Figure 5. This photo shows the completed installation of the audio jack (Kumpf, date unknown).
Variations
- Investigate how placement of the piezoelectric transducer affects the sound quality. For example, do you really get better sound quality with the piezo element hanging partially in air?
- Investigate how the sound quality changes when the piezoelectric transducer is mounted with medium-density foam between it and the underside of the bridge, vs. when the transducer is attached directly to the underside of the bridge.
- More advanced students can use sound analysis software to measure the response of the piezoelectric transducer as a function of sound frequency (power spectrum plot).
- For an experiment on making electric guitar pickups, see the Science Buddies project Make Your Own Electric Guitar Pickup.
- For more science project ideas in this area of science, see Music Project Ideas.
Sources
This procedure from this project is from a webpage by Adam Kumpf, a masters student in Media Arts and Sciences at the MIT Media Lab:
- Kumpf, A., date unknown. "Make Your Own Acoustic Guitar Pickup," Adam Kumpf @ MIT [accessed September 26, 2007] http://web.mit.edu/kumpf/www/guitarpickup.html. မွၿပန္လည္တင္ၿပေပးပါသည္...
22W into 4 Ohm power amplifier, Variable Low Pass Frequency: 70 - 150Hz
This unit is intended to be connected to an existing car stereo amplifier, adding the often required extra "punch" to the music by driving a subwoofer. As very low frequencies are omnidirectional, a single amplifier is necessary to drive this dedicated loudspeaker. The power amplifier used is a good and cheap BTL (Bridge Tied Load) 13 pin IC made by Philips (now NXP Semiconductors) requiring a very low parts count and capable of delivering about 22W into a 4 Ohm load at the standard car battery voltage of 14.4V.
Circuit diagram:
Parts:
P1_____________10K Log Potentiometer
P2_____________22K Dual gang Linear Potentiometer
R1,R4___________1K 1/4W Resistors
R2,R3,R5,R6____10K 1/4W Resistors
R7,R8_________100K 1/4W Resistors
R9,R10,R13_____47K 1/4W Resistors
R11,R12________15K 1/4W Resistors
R14,R15,R17____47K 1/4W Resistors
R16_____________6K8 1/4W Resistor
R18_____________1K5 1/4W Resistor
C1,C2,C3,C6_____4µ7 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C4,C5__________68nF 63V Polyester Capacitors
C7_____________33nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C8,C9_________220µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C10___________470nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C11___________100nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C12__________2200µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1______________LED any color and type
Q1,Q2_________BC547 45V 100mA NPN Transistors
IC1___________TL072 Dual BIFET Op-Amp
IC2_________TDA1516BQ 24W BTL Car Radio Power Amplifier IC
SW1____________DPDT toggle or slide Switch
SW2____________SPST toggle or slide Switch capable of withstanding a current of at least 3A
J1,J2__________RCA audio input sockets
SPKR___________4 Ohm Woofer or two 8 Ohm Woofers wired in parallel
Circuit description:The stereo signals coming from the line outputs of the car radio amplifier are mixed at the input and, after the Level Control, the signal enters the buffer IC1A and can be phase reversed by means of SW1. This control can be useful to allow the subwoofer to be in phase with the loudspeakers of the existing car radio. Then, a 12dB/octave variable frequency Low Pass filter built around IC1B, Q1 and related components follows, allowing to adjust precisely the low pass frequency from 70 to 150Hz. Q2, R17 and C9 form a simple dc voltage stabilizer for the input and filter circuitry, useful to avoid positive rail interaction from the power amplifier to low level sections.
Notes:
Output power (1KHz sinewave):
22W RMS into 4 Ohms at 14.4V supply
Sensitivity:
250mV input for full output
Frequency response:
20Hz to 70Hz -3dB with the cursor of P2 fully rotated towards R12
20Hz to 150Hz -3dB with the cursor of P2 fully rotated towards R11
Total harmonic distortion:
17W RMS: 0.5% 22W RMS: 10%
This unit is intended to be connected to an existing car stereo amplifier, adding the often required extra "punch" to the music by driving a subwoofer. As very low frequencies are omnidirectional, a single amplifier is necessary to drive this dedicated loudspeaker. The power amplifier used is a good and cheap BTL (Bridge Tied Load) 13 pin IC made by Philips (now NXP Semiconductors) requiring a very low parts count and capable of delivering about 22W into a 4 Ohm load at the standard car battery voltage of 14.4V.
Circuit diagram:
P1_____________10K Log Potentiometer
P2_____________22K Dual gang Linear Potentiometer
R1,R4___________1K 1/4W Resistors
R2,R3,R5,R6____10K 1/4W Resistors
R7,R8_________100K 1/4W Resistors
R9,R10,R13_____47K 1/4W Resistors
R11,R12________15K 1/4W Resistors
R14,R15,R17____47K 1/4W Resistors
R16_____________6K8 1/4W Resistor
R18_____________1K5 1/4W Resistor
C1,C2,C3,C6_____4µ7 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C4,C5__________68nF 63V Polyester Capacitors
C7_____________33nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C8,C9_________220µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitors
C10___________470nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C11___________100nF 63V Polyester Capacitor
C12__________2200µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1______________LED any color and type
Q1,Q2_________BC547 45V 100mA NPN Transistors
IC1___________TL072 Dual BIFET Op-Amp
IC2_________TDA1516BQ 24W BTL Car Radio Power Amplifier IC
SW1____________DPDT toggle or slide Switch
SW2____________SPST toggle or slide Switch capable of withstanding a current of at least 3A
J1,J2__________RCA audio input sockets
SPKR___________4 Ohm Woofer or two 8 Ohm Woofers wired in parallel
Circuit description:The stereo signals coming from the line outputs of the car radio amplifier are mixed at the input and, after the Level Control, the signal enters the buffer IC1A and can be phase reversed by means of SW1. This control can be useful to allow the subwoofer to be in phase with the loudspeakers of the existing car radio. Then, a 12dB/octave variable frequency Low Pass filter built around IC1B, Q1 and related components follows, allowing to adjust precisely the low pass frequency from 70 to 150Hz. Q2, R17 and C9 form a simple dc voltage stabilizer for the input and filter circuitry, useful to avoid positive rail interaction from the power amplifier to low level sections.
Notes:
- IC2 must be mounted on a suitable finned heatsink
- Due to the long time constant set by R17 and C9 in the dc voltage stabilizer, the whole amplifier will become fully operative about 15 - 30 sec. after switch-on.
Output power (1KHz sinewave):
22W RMS into 4 Ohms at 14.4V supply
Sensitivity:
250mV input for full output
Frequency response:
20Hz to 70Hz -3dB with the cursor of P2 fully rotated towards R12
20Hz to 150Hz -3dB with the cursor of P2 fully rotated towards R11
Total harmonic distortion:
17W RMS: 0.5% 22W RMS: 10%
Author: RedCircuits - Copyright: www.redcircuits.com
Circuit
High Power LED mood Lamp
Introduction
In this page we will introduce a great project designed by Toon Beerten. His project named "DIY Led Mood Lamp" can become a very interesting add-on for your room that's absolutely sure it will impress everyone. As you can see on the photos, we talk about a color fading lamp, that looks amazing!
The purpose of this page is to try to give some hints building it successful. This high power led mood light is based on PIC16F628 and the ability of this mcu to produce PWM pulses. Varying pulse width we can produce millions of color combinations using only the three basic colors. So only one RGB (Red-Green-Blue) led is capable producing a rainbow of fading colors.
With the help of four switches we can handle all functions of the lamp. We can choose fading or jumping between colors, we can select a rainbow style or a random color changing behavior, we can choose slow or fast changing of colors and we can pause on a desired color.
Finally we will make some power dissipation measurements to help us select an appropriate power supply unit.
Housing for best color diffuse
You can use your imagination to find a housing that will be able to diffuse colors uniformly. Color difussion is necessary to achieve best results. In original design the author used the 45cm IKEA Mylonit lamp. That's a great housing for your lamp. Instead you can use the smaller 31cm IKEA Mylonit lamp with the same amazing results. That's the lamp we used in our constructIn our research we found other lamps (ex. sphere shape) that are ideal for housing your big led.
High Power LED
The led used is a high power 3W RGB LED. It can be found on ebay at LEDSEE-electronics. You can also check ebay for other high power RGB leds. It will do the jod the same way. Details of this brilliant led shown below.
3W high power RGB LED
Light Angle of the LED 140 degree°
Nominal current B,G,R 350mA
Forward voltage:
Red Typ 2,2V
Green Typ 3,55V
Blue Typ 3,55V
Wavelength of the LEDs:
Red Typ 625nm
Green Typ 530nm
Blue Typ 470nm
Luminous Intensity:
RED Typ 32lm
Green Typ 35lm
Blue Typ 10lm
LED type: Common Anode
Schematic
The schematic used is shown in the next image. It's as simple as it shows. Take care on the correct transistor mount and correct polarity of power source.
Parts List
Here is a list of the components i used for making the led mood lamp.
Circuit board
On the next image you can see the circuit arranged on a perforated board.
Programming The PIC 16F628 Microprocessor
Programming the PIC16F628 can be achieved using this very simple pic programmer and a program called ic-prog. Just use your programmer and upload the .hex file on your PIC. For successful results you should pay attention on the fuse bits. You should enter the correct fuses as noted on the following table.
Fuses
IntRC I/O = Enabled
PWRT = Enabled
BODEN = Enabled
MCLR = Disabled
Rest of fuses = Disabled
DIP Switches functions
SW1 - makes you choose between G->GB->B->BR->R->RG-->>G effect and random color change effect
SW2 - makes you choose between fading and jumping from one color to another
SW3 - makes you choose between slow or fast
SW4 - pauses at the current color displayed
Mounting
A good way to mount the circuit board is to use a hot glue gun to "mold" the circuit underneath the lamp housing. There is plenty of space there for your board. At the next photos you can see the circuit board mounted on the small 31cm IKEA Mylonit Lamp.
The glue is still hot. Temperature of glue didn't damage the PIC or other parts.
The glue is now cold and you can easily access the dip switches. Lamp is working!
A view from top of the lamp.
Power dissipation
Finally we have done some current measurements to measure power dissipation. It's clear that current changes as colors are changing. As you can see the max current needed is 232mA. You should keep in mind that this depends on the led you have and the power resistors you choose.
As a conclusion a power supply rated at 5V/500mA will be sufficient.
"အီလက္ထေရာနစ္ နည္းပညာ"မွၿပန္လည္တင္ၿပေပးပါသည္...
In this page we will introduce a great project designed by Toon Beerten. His project named "DIY Led Mood Lamp" can become a very interesting add-on for your room that's absolutely sure it will impress everyone. As you can see on the photos, we talk about a color fading lamp, that looks amazing!
The purpose of this page is to try to give some hints building it successful. This high power led mood light is based on PIC16F628 and the ability of this mcu to produce PWM pulses. Varying pulse width we can produce millions of color combinations using only the three basic colors. So only one RGB (Red-Green-Blue) led is capable producing a rainbow of fading colors.
With the help of four switches we can handle all functions of the lamp. We can choose fading or jumping between colors, we can select a rainbow style or a random color changing behavior, we can choose slow or fast changing of colors and we can pause on a desired color.Finally we will make some power dissipation measurements to help us select an appropriate power supply unit.
Housing for best color diffuse
You can use your imagination to find a housing that will be able to diffuse colors uniformly. Color difussion is necessary to achieve best results. In original design the author used the 45cm IKEA Mylonit lamp. That's a great housing for your lamp. Instead you can use the smaller 31cm IKEA Mylonit lamp with the same amazing results. That's the lamp we used in our construct
In our research we found other lamps (ex. sphere shape) that are ideal for housing your big led.High Power LED
The led used is a high power 3W RGB LED. It can be found on ebay at LEDSEE-electronics. You can also check ebay for other high power RGB leds. It will do the jod the same way. Details of this brilliant led shown below.
3W high power RGB LED
Note: Minus on the bottom right pin is common anode (positive voltage) |
Light Angle of the LED 140 degree°
Nominal current B,G,R 350mA
Forward voltage:
Red Typ 2,2V
Green Typ 3,55V
Blue Typ 3,55V
Wavelength of the LEDs:
Red Typ 625nm
Green Typ 530nm
Blue Typ 470nm
Luminous Intensity:
RED Typ 32lm
Green Typ 35lm
Blue Typ 10lm
LED type: Common Anode
Schematic
The schematic used is shown in the next image. It's as simple as it shows. Take care on the correct transistor mount and correct polarity of power source.
Schematic (click image for higher resolution)
BC337 Pin out
Parts List
Here is a list of the components i used for making the led mood lamp.
- - 3 x NPN transistors capable of driving 500 mA, for example the BC337
- - one PIC 16F628(A) and a programmer
- - a small perforated circuit board
- - 7 x 10K resistors (1/4W)
- - some 1 watt resistors (4,7, 10 and 15 Ohm) and a DIP switch
- - a power supply (5 volts, 500 mA)
- - Ikea Mylonit lamp or other housing
- - silicon paste from your local DIY shop (if you want to use a heatsink)
- - one z-power 3 watt rgb led
- - a little heatsink and some cooling paste (if you want to use a heatsink)
Circuit board
On the next image you can see the circuit arranged on a perforated board.
Programming The PIC 16F628 MicroprocessorProgramming the PIC16F628 can be achieved using this very simple pic programmer and a program called ic-prog. Just use your programmer and upload the .hex file on your PIC. For successful results you should pay attention on the fuse bits. You should enter the correct fuses as noted on the following table.
Fuses
IntRC I/O = Enabled
PWRT = Enabled
BODEN = Enabled
MCLR = Disabled
Rest of fuses = Disabled
DIP Switches functions
SW1 - makes you choose between G->GB->B->BR->R->RG-->>G effect and random color change effect
SW2 - makes you choose between fading and jumping from one color to another
SW3 - makes you choose between slow or fast
SW4 - pauses at the current color displayed
Mounting
A good way to mount the circuit board is to use a hot glue gun to "mold" the circuit underneath the lamp housing. There is plenty of space there for your board. At the next photos you can see the circuit board mounted on the small 31cm IKEA Mylonit Lamp.
The glue is still hot. Temperature of glue didn't damage the PIC or other parts.The glue is now cold and you can easily access the dip switches. Lamp is working!A view from top of the lamp.Power dissipation
Finally we have done some current measurements to measure power dissipation. It's clear that current changes as colors are changing. As you can see the max current needed is 232mA. You should keep in mind that this depends on the led you have and the power resistors you choose.
As a conclusion a power supply rated at 5V/500mA will be sufficient.
"အီလက္ထေရာနစ္ နည္းပညာ"မွၿပန္လည္တင္ၿပေပးပါသည္...
ဖုန္းဝါသနာရွင္မ်ားဖုန္းကလိရန္ေဆာ ့ဖ္ဝဲလ္APK
ဖုန္းေခၚရာမွာအရမ္း အသုံးဝင္တဲ ့APK ေလးပါ
P
ProXimity-Talk-v1.24
Android Application ေလး ခပ္ဆန္းဆန္းေလးတမ်ိဳးပါ။ ဖုန္းဆိုင္ေတြမွာေတာင္ မရွိႏိုင္ေသး
ပါဘူး။ အမ်ိဳးေကာင္းသားဆီမွာေတြ႕လို႕စမ္းျပီးသံုးၾကည္႕တာေတာ္ေတာ္ေလးကိုအဆင္ေျပလို႕ သူငယ္ခ်င္း
ေတြကိုလည္း သံုးေစခ်င္လို႕ျပန္လည္မွ်ေ၀ေပးလိုက္ပါတယ္ဗ်ာ။ ဒီေကာင္ေလးက ဘယ္လိုမ်ိဳးလုပ္ေဆာင္
ေပးလည္းဆိုရင္ ဖုန္းလာတဲ႕အခါမွာ ဖုန္းကို နားရြက္နားကပ္လိုက္တာနဲ႕ ဖုန္းကိုင္ျပီး စကားေျပာဖို႕အဆင္
သင္႕ျဖစ္ေနပါျပီ။ ဖုန္းကို နားကေနခြာလိုက္တာနဲ႕ Auto Speaker ဖြင္႕ေပးပါတယ္။ ဖုန္းလာလို႕ Ring ျမည္
ေနခ်ိန္မွာ ဖုန္းရဲ႕မ်က္ႏွာျပင္ကိုေမွာက္လိုက္တာနဲ႕ ဖုန္းက Silent ျဖစ္သြားမွာပါ။ ဖုန္းကိုလႈပ္ခါလိုက္တာနဲ႕
ဖုန္းခ်သြားတဲ႕ Function ေတြပါ၀င္ပါတယ္။
Android Version 2.1 ႏွင္႕အထက္ဖုန္းမ်ားမွသာအဆင္ေျပ
မွာပါ။ သေဘာက်တယ္ဆိုရင္ေတာ႕ေအာက္က Link မွာေဒါင္းယူႏိုင္ပါတယ္ဗ်ာ။
roXimity-Talk-v1.24
ပါဘူး။ အမ်ိဳးေကာင္းသားဆီမွာေတြ႕လို႕စမ္းျပီးသံုးၾကည္႕တာေတာ္ေတာ္ေလးကိုအဆင္ေျပလို႕ သူငယ္ခ်င္း
ေတြကိုလည္း သံုးေစခ်င္လို႕ျပန္လည္မွ်ေ၀ေပးလိုက္ပါတယ္ဗ်ာ။ ဒီေကာင္ေလးက ဘယ္လိုမ်ိဳးလုပ္ေဆာင္
ေပးလည္းဆိုရင္ ဖုန္းလာတဲ႕အခါမွာ ဖုန္းကို နားရြက္နားကပ္လိုက္တာနဲ႕ ဖုန္းကိုင္ျပီး စကားေျပာဖို႕အဆင္
သင္႕ျဖစ္ေနပါျပီ။ ဖုန္းကို နားကေနခြာလိုက္တာနဲ႕ Auto Speaker ဖြင္႕ေပးပါတယ္။ ဖုန္းလာလို႕ Ring ျမည္
ေနခ်ိန္မွာ ဖုန္းရဲ႕မ်က္ႏွာျပင္ကိုေမွာက္လိုက္တာနဲ႕ ဖုန္းက Silent ျဖစ္သြားမွာပါ။ ဖုန္းကိုလႈပ္ခါလိုက္တာနဲ႕
ဖုန္းခ်သြားတဲ႕ Function ေတြပါ၀င္ပါတယ္။
Android Version 2.1 ႏွင္႕အထက္ဖုန္းမ်ားမွသာအဆင္ေျပ
မွာပါ။ သေဘာက်တယ္ဆိုရင္ေတာ႕ေအာက္က Link မွာေဒါင္းယူႏိုင္ပါတယ္ဗ်ာ။
Android Application ေလး ခပ္ဆန္းဆန္းေလးတမ်ိဳးပါ။ ဖုန္းဆိုင္ေတြမွာေတာင္ မရွိႏိုင္ေသး
ပါဘူး။ အမ်ိဳးေကာင္းသားဆီမွာေတြ႕လို႕စမ္းျပီးသံုးၾကည္႕တာေတာ္ေတာ္ေလးကိုအဆင္ေျပလို႕ သူငယ္ခ်င္း
ေတြကိုလည္း သံုးေစခ်င္လို႕ျပန္လည္မွ်ေ၀ေပးလိုက္ပါတယ္ဗ်ာ။ ဒီေကာင္ေလးက ဘယ္လိုမ်ိဳးလုပ္ေဆာင္
ေပးလည္းဆိုရင္ ဖုန္းလာတဲ႕အခါမွာ ဖုန္းကို နားရြက္နားကပ္လိုက္တာနဲ႕ ဖုန္းကိုင္ျပီး စကားေျပာဖို႕အဆင္
သင္႕ျဖစ္ေနပါျပီ။ ဖုန္းကို နားကေနခြာလိုက္တာနဲ႕ Auto Speaker ဖြင္႕ေပးပါတယ္။ ဖုန္းလာလို႕ Ring ျမည္
ေနခ်ိန္မွာ ဖုန္းရဲ႕မ်က္ႏွာျပင္ကိုေမွာက္လိုက္တာနဲ႕ ဖုန္းက Silent ျဖစ္သြားမွာပါ။ ဖုန္းကိုလႈပ္ခါလိုက္တာနဲ႕
ဖုန္းခ်သြားတဲ႕ Function ေတြပါ၀င္ပါတယ္။
Android Version 2.1 ႏွင္႕အထက္ဖုန္းမ်ားမွသာအဆင္ေျပ
မွာပါ။ သေဘာက်တယ္ဆိုရင္ေတာ႕ေအာက္က Link မွာေဒါင္းယူႏိုင္ပါတယ္ဗ်ာ။
http://pyaephyothu.minus.com/mbooxdqfUE/1gမွၿပန္လည္တင္ၿပေပးပါသည္...
တစ္ေသာင္းတန္ ဖုန္းကတ္ကို ပိုက္ဆံမကုန္ေအာင္ ဟတ္နည္း(သယ္ရင္းေတာ္ေတာ္မ်ားမ်ား လုပ္တတ္ၾကမွာပါ)
သူငယ္ခ်င္းမ်ားကို တစ္ျခား ဆိုဒ္မွာ မတင္ဘဲ ဒီဆိုဒ္မွာ ပဲတင္ေပးတာပါ...လူသိမ်ားရင္မေကာင္းဘူးေလ.....သူငယ္ခ်င္းမ်ားအသံုးျပဳေနၾကတဲ႕ မိုဘိုင္း ဖုန္းမ်ားတြင္ထည္႕သြင္းအသံုးျပဳလာရသည္႕ တစ္ေသာင္းတန္ ကတ္ မ်ားကို ဟတ္မယ္
ဆိုရင္ေတာ့ ပထမဆံုး..... ေငြကတ္ျဖည္႕ရင္ *123*ရုိတ္ရမဲ႕ေနရာမွာ *123* ရဲ႕ေရွ႕မွာ မိမိဖုန္းနံပါတ္ကို အရင္ဦးဆံုး
ရိုတ္ထည္႕လိုက္ပါ....ဦးစားေပးစဥ္းစားရမွာတစ္ခုက
နံပါတ္ေတြမ်ားေနတဲ႕အတြက္ မမွားေအာင္ဂရုစိုက္ရမွာပဲျဖစ္ပါတယ္......
ကၽြန္ေတာ္ေျပာတာရႈပ္ေနရင္ ျပန္ေျပာျပပါ့မယ္.... *123*......passwod........# ဆိုတာဖုန္းကတ္သြင္းတိုင္း ရိုတ္ရတာ ထံုးစံပါ...
ကၽြန္ေတာ္ေျပာခ်င္တာက *123*......passwod........# ရဲ႕ေရွ႕မွာ မိမိဖုန္းနံပါတ္ ကို 09........ ဆိုျပီးရိုတ္ထည္႕ျပီး ဖုန္းတစ္ခါ ဆက္ျပီးတိုင္း
09........*123*......passwod........#ကိုေခၚဖို႕မေမ့ပါနဲ႕...အဲဒါဆိုရင္ေတာ့ ဖုန္းမေခၚခင္ထဲက မိမိဖုန္းထဲမွာ ရွိတဲ႕ ပိုက္ဆံကို နဂိုမူလ
အတိုင္း ဆက္လက္က်န္ရွိေနမွာျဖစ္တယ္လို႕ မေန႕က ကၽြန္ေတာ္အိပ္မက္ ထဲကအေၾကာင္းကိုေဖာက္သည္ျပန္ခ်လိုက္ရပါတယ္
<a href="http://kopaelay.blogspot.com/2012/08/blog-post_7168.html">မွၿပန္လည္တင္ၿပေပးပါသည္...
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